Huet Vouvray, Le Haut-Lieu Sec, 2009

From the cellar: Ambiguous and alluring.

Exquisite and exciting; sort of like a trip to the Louvre and seeing something old for the first time.  Contradictory—sweet but not, strong while gentle, assertive while delicate—and intriguing: A floral nose but not a bouquet on the mouth; it reminded me of once taking a bus across Crete in April and that exceptional scent in the hills when the lemon trees bloom.  Sweetness on the tongue but a dry wine.  Citrus, sort of like lemon rind, but not biting or detracting.  Superbly interesting and evocative and nothing like the everyday whites that dominate our liquor store shelves.  Will Chenin Blanc become the next Riesling?  Probably not; CB is more like a Rubik’s cube while Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are, at their best, a Saturday NYT Crossword.

Generally, Huet is out of our price range and hard to come by but the fine people at Marquis got a few crates in a year or so ago and this treasure beckoned to us.  Oh, and wouldn’t you know: Near perfection at 13.5% alcohol.  The French could teach the west coast vintners a thing or two…

Price: $34 at Marquis but at least a year ago.

Market Liquidity: If Harold Pinter had made wine it would have resonated like this Huet.

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