Osoyoos Larose, Le Grand Vin, 2006

059From the cellar: The wine literati rarely return to the scene of their crimes, er, predictions.  Perhaps every wine they claim has legs to stay the course should be put in the vault to test the assumption.  This expensive vintage certainly didn’t merit the wait.  The “from the cellar” category on this blog is an attempt to reconcile recommended drinking with recommended wines.  It’s taking years.  With a release review that it could last well into the mid teens, the 06 Larose was a tepid competitor to less costly reds with finer grace and more complexity that we’re corking (or unscrewing) from in and around the same vintage.  Again and again, Spain, the “New World” (i.e., Chile and Argentina) and (with shocking consistency) Washington reds, are trumping the “cellar keeps” we’ve been documenting, opening as per the “advocates” and comparing against original reviews.  Time did not tame the beast.

 

In truth, it drank decent.  It drank OK.  It drank like a C+, a good red, but lacked even the elemental surprise of what the (often dismal) 05 Bordeaux’s came out into the decanter seven years later.  Liquorice, tobacco, dark fruit, a burnt-Christmas pudding piquant-ish after taste, a whopping 69% Merlot but not a whiff of vanilla left.  To call this wine a keeper is to akin to giving Kissinger the Nobel Peace Prize: He goes down in history as a laureate, but was there no one else in the running more worthy?

 

NB: Kermit Lynch, one of my wine gurus, had a fitting interview in the New York Times on October 20, 2013 which spelled out all my discontent with this bottle and in fact (although a little cranky) speaks for millions of wine lovers/wine drinkers on price, alcohol content and the overbearing point system.  Essentially, he says it best.  Read it yourself.

 

Price: A ridiculous $45 in 2008 with a review to keep, keep, keep.

 

Market Liquidity: Remember when Borg tried a comeback with a wooden racquet?  ‘Nuff said.

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