Glorious. I could sing a hymn: Be thou o God exalted high, and as thy glory fills the sky… I heard Brahms. I heard Bach.
So, OK, enough with the hyperbole. This is just a very, very satisfying bottle of wine. It has that striking balance that hits you with alacrity because most wine, most wine that gets high scores, is pronounced. It proclaims itself “New American Oak” or “Potent Potable.” This is subtle, with balance, with nuance, some oak, some stone fruit, a little straw, a bit of honeydew, but all combined, opening gently like a symphony, building on the palate and ending with a lingering, savoury finish.
I wonder if in fact it is too subtle for the modern drinker? A stroke of genius but no cymbals? For those who have never listened to the full version of Also Sprach Zarathustra, you’d be surprised how it mellows and gently peters out without the brash fanfare we all equate with 2001.
On a simpler note, I dreamed of winning the Lotto Max and buying oodles of white Burgundy. Anyone surfing through the posts here knows we have a soft spot for Olivier Leflaive. This bottle came to me from my sister, who stayed at his hotel in Puligny-Montrachet, then brought a bottle all the way back to Canada for her brother. O lucky day! I do hear a hymn.
One of my favorite character actors, George Sanders, could lean against a brick wall and bring more to a scene with a raised eyebrow than his much more famous contemporaries flailing about with spot lighting and myriad props. If you know what I mean, that is this wine.
Price: Gifted, but the 2010 was available at Marquis for $110.
Market Liquidity: Ethereal. I can’t even remember drinking it.