In a recent profile on rosé wines, local reviewer Anthony Gismondi raved about the Miraval, posting it 90 points. When we tried it a few months back I decided not to review it. It just wasn’t as interesting, exciting or memorable as all the critical hoopla it’s been garnering along the way. I applaud movie stars for helping the homeless while growing grapes. God knows if I had a few million lying around I’d do the same. So thank you Brad and Angelie for, at least, designing such an appealing bottle. But the enterprise seemed to us style over substance. And I write this to say that somehow, each summer, when all the reviewers turn their minds to rosé, I sort of feel the same way. It’s 99 per cent letdown. But light, bright, lovely whites don’t have to be.
Right here at home you can reject the rosé offerings and take something much more interesting: Harper’s Trail Pinot Gris. (Their rosé, btw, sold out pretty quick, but why settle for rosé when you can try something better?) This is a luscious mouthful of stone fruits, peach and apricot, a tad sweet but worked wonderfully with a cheese plate and salad. Immensely drinkable, great price, food friendly. Compare this to the slew of no-flavour no-interest Pinto Gris out of Italy and it makes you wonder why BC hasn’t taken over the world with light whites. Harpers has a slew of low alcohol wines which makes them suited to lunch, the patio, and a welcome respite for those of us exhausted by heady reds. This is under 13 per cent and they even have a Chardonnay under 12. Kudos HT.
Price: $23 at the friendly VQA shops.
Market Liquidity: Summer in a bottle.