Qupé Roussanne, 2010

From the cellar: For Thanksgiving I thought an interesting white was in order. Braised pork shoulder in leeks, carrots, onions, dried apricots. This would have been Riesling’s time to shine but my cellar is not so well-stocked. We had a gifted prestigious Rhone varietal from the always interesting Qupé.


A lot to ponder: Pronounced minerality and citrus (grapefruit, lemon, pith), Chinese gooseberries, layered in a not completely harmonious balance, then followed by a woody, herbaceous finish. A ludicrously long finish, soft and elegant with none of the pungency on the attack. Finally, on the palate, an uneven lingering intensity, like the air in damp woods. Probably a major accomplishment for a major-general varietal, but there was something strident and cryptic in this wine that, ultimately, left us wanting. The pork however, ooh-la-la.


Price: Gifted but online $40 at the vineyard.


Market Liquidity: Karl Popper was brilliant but impenetrable in print.

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