Archive for February 23rd, 2015

February 23, 2015

Yalumba Y-Series Viognier, 2014

Yalumba Viognier

Much trumpeted, poorly executed. A simple, innocuous, pale imitator of Viognier. And we are big proponents of obscure grapes. Just had a wonderful Cos Pithos Bianco in NYC which was gorgeous. And in a Brooklyn Michelin starred restaurant the server recommended a Californian Celadon Grenache Blanc, hands down the most food friendly and versatile white we’ve had in a long time (and only a couple hundred cases made). But this, this Y Series made us ask why at all? The blogosphere disagrees with me:

 

Loaded with fruit

Satisfyingly silky

Intense and perfumed

Bla bla bla

 

No.  This was hands down the most disappointing white I’ve tasted in months. Certainly it is, so far, the dud of the year. I know they make a higher end Viognier, but this was just plonk.

 

Viognier is such a versatile and welcome white I was sorely annoyed at how flat and distant this bottle was. We’d prepared a gorgeous Asian chicken stew with fresh ginger and star anise, cooked in daikon and squash. A decent Oz Tahblik Viognier would have hit the spot. The Yalumba went back to the pantry for risotto.

 

Fortunately we had a bottle of last year’s Blue Mountain Pinot Gris. And it hit the spot like magic.  BC Wines To the Rescue (who woulda thunk it?).

 

Price: $17.99 at BCL.

 

Market Liquidity: In the words of Simon Cowell, it was like ordering a hamburger and only getting the bun.

February 23, 2015

Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne-Boutinet Sauvage, 2010

CDR Villages for $30.  Better be good.  Hmmm.

Cairanne Boutinet 2010

First, I’m shocked at how many great reviews there are for this wine which, sure, has stupendous legs, but it needs much more time in the bottle, and has what the vineratti call intensity and/or is forward on the attack.  If, like me, you open it now, it needs time, time and more time.  I recommend four hours decanted.  It is hugely powerful, overpowering out of the bottle.  It softens and evens out, there are gorgeous herbal notes and (of course, RP’s favorite) oak, but buttery and soft.  None of that is on the tongue freshly corked.  We went from one tannic sip to a small glass an hour later to finishing the bottle after waiting another two and a half hours.  It was like a journey down a bumpy road ending up on tarmac.  In the end elegant and nuanced flavours on a silky finish.  And such slow drinking kept us sober (it is a heady 14.5%…)

Price: $29.99.  A heck of a lot of money.  At BCL.

Market Liquidity: A little too rustic for us, but if you can score it in the US at $17, a no-brainer.