We’ve started in on a case from Burrowing Owl. First out of the box was the 2012 Pinot Noir. Wow. This has more layers than a German schichttorte.

It starts a little commonplace. Just another mediocre Pinot from the OK with not much on the nose and a medium body. Then it pops on the palate, chocolate and raspberry, fruity with light tannins. However, and this is the show-stopper, the finish goes on longer than The Guiding Light, gorgeous.

It sipped very well, pleasant. A little peppery bite. Then we ate dinner (stew with pork coated in cumin, coriander and cinnamon, with squash, carrots, leeks and okra in a crushed tomato broth). While pork and Pinot are cheese and chutney, tomato and Pinot are chalk and cheese. Not here. The BO pulled a Zelig: It came out of its shell and delivered a vibrant layer of darker, smokier, woodsy flavour that was eloquent and hearty in one fell swoop. I label it an accomplishment and will ante up the dough. Let’s see what the pointsters say…

Price: $30 direct from the vineyard.

Market Liquidity: As Bruno sings it, Smooth as a fresh jar of Skippy.