This wine is so subtle it makes Ricky Jay’s sleight of hand look mechanical. You know the old WASP adage “put on all your jewellery then take one piece off”? That is sort of this Pinot: First make a Merlot, then take away all the character.
Which is not to say it’s not a wonderful vintage. But it does lend itself to the double negative. Very easy to drink, smooth, supple, gentle. It’s like “Welcome to wine!” for dummies. There is nothing aggressive or forward. The herby notes, even the more pungent woodsy pine and wet earth are muted; think Miles Davis on smack. It really is that low-key. And that, to me, seems to be the problem. While a huge accomplishment, I’m sure, to produce this caliber Pinot, it lacks something assertive that the very best of any varietal brings to the palate. It’s like the million and one Banana Republic cashmere sweaters; fine wool in a standard cut, ad nauseum. Subdued is great, but sooner or later you need some brain candy. For us, this wine was very impressive but couldn’t hold our attention.
One comment was that it drank like an entry level drug. One sip and you’ll be hooked on Pinot.
Price: $29 USD which I know was a deal but still…
Market Liquidity: Glass half full: A plain black Bruno Cucinelli scarf will set you back three thousand. Sometimes subtlety is warranted.