A split before dinner. How civilized. It’s been a few years since we popped a Roederer. I’d forgotten how much the toasty yeast balances with the fruit. There is more fruit than perhaps you expect, but the finish has a lovely caramel note that is sharp and pleasant. If only all the apple cider artisans could take a page from Louis… At 12 per cent alcohol, refreshing (both meanings).  If you don’t mind spending the dough, highly recommended (and, truthfully, much better value than several non-vintage labels above it, hint hint Bolly). A few fewer bubbles than, say, Veuve.

Price: The bottle will set you back $70 at BC Liquor; the half bottles at independent shops will set you back $40.

Market Liquidity: And James Bond prefers vodka? It takes all types.