Archive for November 23rd, 2015

November 23, 2015

Waxwing Lester Family Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2013

Words fail me a bit on this one.

 

As a sipper, as a stand alone wine, as an evocation of Pinot, this is sensational.

Cedar Waxwing Lester Family Pinot Noir

It has a powerful and enticing bouquet, the “attack” is heavy like Grenache leather and Cabernet pepper, but it immediately softens, the finish is velvet, soft, elegant, accomplished.  All you can do is take another sip to make sure you weren’t hallucinating.  Anything to moan about?  It can’t stand up to food.  To gentle cheese or mild meat or even a fish soup.  It was like a Faberge egg; delicate and lovely under the spotlight but not meant to be part of the diorama.  So what?  Open something else at dinner.  Ooh la la.

 

Price: Lost track.  I think low 20s USD.

 

Market Liquidity: A spectacular songbird, a no less spectacular Pinot.

November 23, 2015

Jean-David Seguret, 2013

Our favorite “ordinary” wine of 2015 was the Mus-C; the JDS comes within inches of meeting (and exceeding) the challenge. It has that earthy, pungent sincerity of wine, none of the aplomb, pizazz and spectacle of, say, a California Cab.

Jean-David Seguret, 2013

Other highlights: Biodynamic, indigenous yeasts, no enzymes, no stabilizers, sulfurs only when and as needed.

 

It is not perfect; the tannins are a tad cloying, the eloquent perfume on the palate is much diminished on the finish. The tangents of violet and plum provide beautiful high notes, but some leathery undertones aren’t as polished as, say, a Gigondas from a few months back. There are, quite frankly, better Grenache wines on the market even in BC but this one fact is true: You cannot buy this wine in BC. Let me repeat that: You cannot buy this wine in BC. You can’t special order it, you can’t petition the Liquor Board, you are just going to live without it. Unless you order it to be shipped to the US, bring it across the border, pay taxes and duty (and gas to and from the border), then, yes, you can have it in Canada. And that, that alone, is the reason we write this crazy blog. To show that wine in BC is still a weirdly socialist highly controlled over taxed and madly administrative industry as opposed to any affection towards art, finesse, appreciation and well you can see we’ve broken our cardinal rule of over-proselytizing…

 

Did we like it? We loved it. The imperfections won us over. The imperfections were, in fact, deeply engaging.

 

Price: Under $20 USD.

 

Market Liquidity: Clark Terry mumbling; cool and unique and you don’t understand it but you totally do.

November 23, 2015

Chateau Tour Saint-Fort, Saint-Estephe, 2005

From the cellar: Shag carpet. It is that smooth. A gorgeous Bordeaux, no doubt, but (and this is an ongoing problem) the critical raves for 05 have become tiresome, the expectations too high, and the wine, overall, great but not Ben Hur meets Avatar meets Titanic meets Ridley Scott on a soundstage epic. Good is different.

Chateau Tour Sain-Fort Saint Estephe

The smoothness comes with some funky, fungal, mushroom like undertones, a sharp peppery bite, which doesn’t linger, and sweet notes of cherry and currant. We decanted and drank slowly over an evening. It didn’t markedly improve.

 

In order to really impress someone you need to be thinking about the 05 vintage, looking at the label, and content to partake. But if you lined up some New World alternatives, I’m not confident it would blind taste as well as the pointster’s scores. Ridge anyone?

 

Price: $28 USD although I didn’t date the purchase. Still, at least half of what it would have cost in BC (and, worse, you would have had to slog your way through the mad crush of Bordeaux release day at BCL…)

 

Market Liquidity: Out to impress.