The label, with all the plaudits, looks like the poster for a 1970s disaster movie: The Towering Inferno or Earthquake, bursting to the seams with A list stars brushing up against B list character actors. Points, points, points, points. I’m afraid, despite the hype, this was mildly impressive. And only.
Gismondi recommended this Syrah dominated blend for the cellar. Probably good advice. However,as the third red in a row for us over a recent weekend, it took bronze by default: The lovely Walla Walla blend, the assertive BC Cab Franc, then this, a much lauded Chilean blend. Hmm. A wine with no identity, lost in a range of flavour profiles and completely without nuance. This organic red is so well-loved online, professionals and pundits alike, my only concern is that the bottle we got had been in a non-temperature-controlled environment somewhere, some place, for too long: which is the problem with BC Liquor, it’s a handshake deal that wine didn’t sit idly in a container on a dock or linger in an overheated delivery van or, and this is exceptionally common, take direct south sun through a window, baking day after day, on a shelf somewhere gathering dust. It wasn’t corked but gosh was it flat.
There’s a great line the fire chief has in The Towering Inferno: “Now, you know there’s no sure way for us to fight a fire… in anything over the seventh floor, but you guys just keep buildin’ em as high as you can.” These vineyards that keep blendin’ to beat the band. There is no end in sight to the aspirations and, apparently, the plaudits. The only thing is this: Disaster movies are worth remembering only in the retelling. if at all. Not even the awful sequel to Poseidon Adventure could make an amusing anecdote.
Price: $28 plus taxes at BC Liquor.
Market Liquidity: “Maybe they just ought to leave it the way it is. A kind of shrine to all the bullshit in the world.” Paul Newman “the architect” at the end of Towering Inferno.