There was a lot of wine on offer during the last “official” week of summer. Most of it neither here nor there. A 2009 Priorat that Robert Parker claimed could be drunk over the next 15-20 years was corked. A CdR Sablet that Gismondi had recommended for the cellar through 2020 was mediocre. A cheap red from the OK crush pad was character-free but enormously quaffable. The star of the lot for me was a dessert beverage from Pender Island.
Sea Star turns out some exceptional, light, aromatic whites. We’ll review a couple next week. Hard to find, but inexpensive and easy to drink, they show what can be done in earnest, as opposed to ego. They sell two dessert wines, one a Riesling paired with apple, the Prose, and another which is Foch, Pinot Noir and berries, which they call Poetry.
I’ll be blunt: The Poetry is a disaster like, I hasten to add, so much modern poetry. There’s an American “conceptual” poet called Kenneth Goldsmith who originated “uncreative” writing including an art installation of every word he said for a week, and who has stated he never suffers from writer’s block because there’s always something to copy. In other words, insufferable. Sea Star Poetry drinks like your neighbour’s kit wine club plonk which they bottle at $4 per plus supplies. Alcoholic, forward, blatantly berry, and not unlike any number of bottled fruit beverages they serve on ice with a cherry instead of ale.
Which is to say, that’s too bad, because the Prose is something to be savored. It sails in the direction of Sauternes, shy of course, but still with that full fruit of apple, stone, kiwi, lingers on the tongue (but not long enough), and is will suited to not just cheese (thank God) but actual honest to god desserts. Expensive ($21 for the half) but a wonderful BC antidote to the Port wannabes, such as Black Sage’s Pipe, et. al.
Price: $21 at the Saturna General Store (!).
Market Liquidity: Sometimes good things come in small packages.