Sea Star Vineyards Stella Maris, 2015


The last of several reviews on and about Sea Star (see the Salish Sea here, the Siegerrebe here, the Poetry and Prose here).  It’s beginning to look like a paid consultancy.  Why, however, I don’t see reviews or find Sea Star wines on any local wine lists or even see it in private wine stores is a mystery.  The Siegerrebe (a gewurtz dominated blend) is probably the crowd favorite, but I feel the best of the vineyard is the Stella Maris, a marriage of the fruit bowl with the spice cupboard, dry and delicious and incomparably “BC” if you know what I mean.  Why pay three times the price for wannabe reds from Le Vieux Pin?


On their website, Sea Star describes this wine as dry and crisp with a polished finish.  It is that and then some.


This is the thing: That is truth in advertising.  That is not a bottle promo like so much Oz hokum.  This is a light, enjoyable, social wine, enormously food friendly and low alcohol.  It may not speak to Thanksgiving or Christmas, but it would do well as a house wine at Bao Bei, Anh and Chi, Chau, Zest, Hapa Izakaya, heck any number of YVR fusion restaurants.  There is a beer renaissance in Vancouver; maybe one day there will be a wine renaissance, and small vineyards with a sense of terroir will marry tried and true with something novel and we’ll stop trying to compete with Bordeaux futures.  Sigh…


Price: Just over $20 at the Saturna General Store.


Market Liquidity: Jurgen Gothe would have loved it, may he rest in peace.

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