D’Orrance Chenin Blanc KAMA, 2012





If you splurge once in a while on a wine simply because of critical praise, and then are disappointed, I hear your pain. Amen brother. We need to forge a twelve step critical disappointment program. But sometimes you dig deep into the wine budget and it pays off big time. Case in point this elegant, eloquent, Chenin that was like an encased jewel box, that just needed dusting off to show all it’s colour and dimension.


Of course Chenin is not to everyone’s taste; even in France, Loire whites are not as ubiquitous in the corner wine store as you’d expect. In South Africa, where they blossom, BC rarely gets an opp to experiment (it’s Bellingham and then things hit a chasm). But we sourced this bottle at Everything Wine and were suitably impressed. Five year old luxe white for around $40; sounds expensive but really that’s a bargoon considering the lay away.


Ludicrously delicious. A golden shimmer in the glass, toffee, apple, honey and honeydew hits the palate along with an oily nuttiness and some lighter minerality. Acidity that is pure pleasure. It is exquisite in its complexity and hugely intriguing. I have some Neem honey from the Himalayas and that sweet, blossom, funkiness is also in this wine. The oak is almost transparent (thankfully); in fact the oak is umami.


Price: Expensive in BC; a very unfortunate $43 at Everything Wine (but keep in mind this is the 2012, not the 2014). The 2014 is available in Saskatchewan for $23. That is plainly extraordinary value.


Market Liquidity: Controlled delirium if such a thing is possible.

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