I avoid Le Vieux Pin. Our reviews have always been muted by the price point and the presentation as though there is something better in the bottle than you might imagine. It rubs me as precious and then, sometimes, preposterous. We wrote here, in 2012, that LVP “pretends to produce wines that are much better than they really are.” This un-objective bent has led us to, in general, avoid LVP’s boutique kin La Stella which has (I think) the habit of tourist tchotchke kitsch in naming their varietals as if they were kittens. Vivace for Pinot Grigio. Fortissimo for, oh Jesus it’s hard enough to read a German wine label or remember the few hundred Italian varietals let alone these inane nicknames. It’s tiresome. The beauty of the new world is you buy Semillon, not Bordeaux Blanc.
But it’s also time to bury the hatchet with LVP/La Stella on this lovely sipper, as the days are longer and the temps are higher and this speaks to everything you might want in a rosé but with actual character. Lovely layers of fleshy fruit and blossom lightness, a meady-y sweetness and a brisk acidity. Refreshing to boot. And, wait for it: An affordable, drinkable, BC sipper. Perfection with an Ottolenghi orzo main.
Price: $29 at Everything Wine ($23 at the vineyard).
Market Liquidity: A bracing, evocative BC white.