A big and brash if not charming red with the heft for something substantial, say a bloody T-bone or a medium rare rack of lamb.

Cocoa nibs, licorice, Ribena, assertive tannins and a bracing coconut-tanning lotion finish. This is a wine with some serious legs (Ginger Rogers meets Cyd Charisse for a threesome with Fred Astaire) and, for those who don’t like the ethereal nimbleness of a fine Pinot, a wonderful counterpoint.  As much as we liked it, there were times we pictured a mallet falling on Wile E Coyote’s head.

Price: $35 at the vineyard in 2016.

Market Liquidity: If you dug it out of a peat bog in 2030 it would probably still charm.