Yesterday we blogged about an overpriced red. Today we’re posting about a reasonably priced white. Ah Sea Star. Ooh la la. We have blogged pretty much the entire vineyard and gone ga ga over most of the bottles but now it’s time to part: Sea Star has become too popular. You simply can’t get a hold of it. Unless you’re in a restaurant.
Luckily, at one of the lesser known cafes in the province, on Saturna Island, chef Hubertus Surm serves a beautiful dinner Saturday nights where he stocks a La Frenz red and a Sea Star white; it’s one or the other or go dry. That pretty much sums up, in a vinous sense, the southern Gulf Islands in a sentence, LF and SS.
A Siegerrebe Muller-Thurgau blend, the Ortega is definitely the most perfumed and aromatic of Sea Star’s table whites. There are potent honeyed notes with distinct herbal tangents, like oregano in bloom and a whiff of lavender. The mouth is gorgeously full and overall the wine is superbly food friendly. Schreiner (and a few others online) write of the grapefruit, but I found the acidity smooth and the citrus gentler, like ugli fruit or tangelo. There is a linear infusion of tropical flavours, pineapple guava punch, and a long finish. As we say over and over again about Sea Star, they are producing the right white wines for the climate and soil and they are doing a helluva job.
Price: $20 at the vineyard, $30 at the Saturna café (kudos to the SC for a less than 100% markup).
Market Liquidity: What joy to drink a drinkable local wine at a decent price. Hallelujah.