From a July post after nearly a month in Italy we raved about Friulano, a sort of Sauvignon hybrid positively perfect with antipasti and, in Italy’s south, more on the money than not. But alas our socialized liquor board failed the consumer; yet again. It’s what I call a “dry run” when you can’t find what you’re looking for in BC but find it in abundance anywhere else (outside Canada). We found a straggler, the Villa Locatelli, much reviewed by Gismondi but totally a non-starter for us, not even in the curiosity category. We decided not to post.
Then a fellow wine geek, sensing my desperation, sourced the Rocca Bernarda at EW. What a revelation. Hearty, husky, a red wine in white wine’s clothing, next to the Locatelli, the former like a badminton player, the RB like a rugby forward.
Regular old wine descriptors aren’t particularly useful with Friulano–especially if you’ve never drunk it. It needs some regular language (citrus and stone fruit), it needs some exotica (apricot kernels and toasted clove), it needs some standard bearers like melon, and then it needs to be rated on mouth feel. It should have a texture somewhere between the greenest virgin olive oil and pear nectar. As with our July note, if you can hit it out of the park, like the Bastianich Plus, you are up in the majors; but if you don’t, this is an inconsequential varietal.
Price: Gifted but $30 at Everything Wine in the oddbins.
Market Liquidity: Grand but not grandiose.