Archive for April, 2021

April 22, 2021

Chateau Gaillard Clos de Mez Morgon, 2017

Heaven. I repeat: Heaven.

We splurged for an Easter weekend red, something meat and vegan friendly, and this was the ultimate.  So bold and striking, a great big gob of fruity juiciness with these niche floral notes floating through like motifs, great balance, terrific finish.  And we finished it, in a flash.

Rarely do we wholeheartedly buy into the Wine Advocate, but their 92 point review is right on the money, every single point.  It has that ethereal lightness of Beaujolais but legs, determination and assertiveness, and a luscious super appealing garnet hue in the glass. As Anthony Gismondi is wont to say, real wine.

Price: $44 at Marquis

Market Liquidity: Beaujolais goes all “authentic self” on itself.

April 22, 2021

Envinate Vinos Atlanticos Migan, 2018

Listan Negro.  Say what? 

Earthy.  Like damp forest, pine needles and boggy soil, really unusual, mysterious, and although deeply engaging a tad strange.  There is a Cousin Itt about the palate finish, odd but lovable.  Unexpectedly hugely food friendly.  Some smoke on the nose with crushed currant underneath.  Pretty hard to describe, not easy to engage with, novel, but yet delectable.

I think it’s unfair to call this a Spanish red.  A Canarias wine should, arguably, be African.  As for the wax top: Is there any more profound way to disengage with the end user? To frustrate bartenders and servers? To make a fucking ludicrous mess of the kitchen?  Bits of wax showing up weeks later like NYE glitter.  That’s a sour note before the drinking even begins…

Price: Well good luck to start with but if you can actually score a bottle in Canada, let alone BC, it will set you back at least $45.

Market Liquidity: Mos Eisley on Tatooine.  It really is that odd.

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April 22, 2021

Artuke Finca de los Locos, 2018

The biggest disappointment of 2021 so far.  Wow.  Just not good.

Maybe it was the Wine Advocate’s 93 points, and, therefore, some latent expectation the wine could never meet.  Or maybe it was the cost, and the resentment that comes with paying too much for wine in BC in general.  But really, I think it was that this was not a balanced bottle of wine.  It was like spokes, tangents of greatness, without cohesion.  A blast of oak, a less than enticing splash of cherry, layers of not that interesting yeast.  The joke about Jackson Pollock was that anyone could splatter paint but the reality about his splatter was it was unique.  This is just the splatter.

Ripe.  Way, way, way too ripe.  And nowhere to go but round the cul-de-sac and back again.

Price: $50 before a 10% discount on a mixed case.

Market Liquidity: Ishtar-esque.

April 12, 2021

Domaine FL Le Parc, Savennieres, 2015

Pure and unadulterated.

Decanter got it right, “best in show” like the title pooch at Westminster.  It drinks so precious you might feel a Faberge egg is being scrambled.  Striking on first taste, a short tropical note of coconut, some serious acidity, grapefruit pith, and a finish, extremely restrained, of melon.  Jackie O in a sweater set and pearls.

Chenin Blanc, in our view, is to die for.  My desert island white.  And no doubt this is a pinnacle of the Loire.  But it does drink just a tad, how can I put it? Elegant.  Sort of like arriving at a restaurant that requires a jacket and having to wear a club loaner; think Michael Bluth double dating at the country club in the size 44 large suit jacket.

Price: The best part of $50 at BC Liquor

Market Liquidity: Art house treasure (but, still, it’s art house).