Archive for ‘Malbec’

October 3, 2019

Zuccardi Q Malbec, 2016

zuccardi Q malbec 2016

Malbec is not our thing (in a major way).  And this Malbec, despite its serious points credential (witness the proudly displayed Robert Parker seal of approval), is really not our cup of tea.  There’s a line in the sitcom Difficult People where they tell an embarrassing story about Arthur, the PBS WASP drone husband of Julie, that one time he ordered a Malbec. Laugh if you get it I guess.

 

But here’s the rub: Zuccardi makes some good wines and this wine is ludicrously food friendly.  The Q series is not top of the line Zuccardi but we’ve had it several times with different foods and while it’s not a star varietal it has a blank canvas food friendly aspect which never ceases to surprise.  There is no supercharged oak.  We drank it this week with Japanese beef stew, heavy in ginger, Mirin, squash, soy and stock.  It was ideal.  Who would of thunk?  But a bit dull as a sipper.

 

Price: A reasonable $28 at private wine shops, give or take.

 

Market Liquidity: Leonard Zelig-esque.

 

Oh and a link here to our over-the-top Zuccardi tasting night in Buenos Aires, a few years back, at El Baqueno.

arthur tack difficult people

Arthur Tack has a drinkypoo

February 22, 2019

Santa Julia Reserva Malbec, 2017

It’s young.  It’s not expensive. It’s littered with pointster stickers.  And yet?  It delivers.

 

With some air and time and despite its youth this is just surprisingly good value, gorgeously expressive of Malbec, tasty, tangy, forward, food friendly, and easy on the pocket book.  Who woulda thunk it?

 

Price: $17 at BC Liquor

 

Market Liquidity: A minor miracle.

December 23, 2018

Chateau Les Croiseille Calcaire, 2014

We had a selection of Gismondi picks for a week away, most of which one way or another proved disappointing, but this was definitely the highlight of the lot.  It’s not a grabber, I probably wouldn’t even offer it to guests, despite how wonderfully it opens up and the aromatic eucalyptus slash pepper awash in luscious fruit; no, this is more of a quiet night in wine, some leftover prime rib with vegetables, a glass to finish off, heck let’s skip dessert and just drink the whole bottle.

 

There is something very old school about it, I didn’t bother to search out the pointster reviews, but my hunch is that it’s a little pedestrian and not quite oak and maraschino forward-enough for the Robert Parker crowd.  A delectable 13% alcohol.

 

Price: $33 at BC Liquor, if you can find it.

 

Market Liquidity: When’s the last time you heard someone in BC order a glass of Cahors?  Nice change from New World.

November 17, 2018

Vino Cobos Felino Malbec, 2016

The worst Malbec is somewhere between chalk and unripe raspberry.  The best is like cherries jubilee, creamy and rich and assertive in its juiciness.  This is neither.

 

A slight but persistent bitterness overrides any enjoyment.  The predominant fruitiness is cough syrup.  The spicy white pepper finish is plainly unpleasant.

 

Moderately food friendly, forgettable as a sipper, but apparently a pointster star.  Go figure.

 

Price: A most appealing $21 at Everything Wine.

 

Market Liquidity: Sometimes, once is always enough.

November 3, 2018

Tinto Negro Limestone Block Malbec, 2015

The entry level TN Malbec will set you back $15.  It’s good patio value.  The Limestone Block will set you back double.  But it’s not twice as good.

 

With decanting and a little air this will soften up and beckon.  Previous vintages have scored highly with James Suckling and Robert Parker.  They like the balance, fruit and herbal notes.  We found it muted.  All those things they like are present, you just have to close your eyes and think hard.  It’s not an open book.

 

Price: $30 at Everything Wine.

 

Market Liquidity: Fleeting.  Think of a trumpet mute; it has an effect, but nothing worth a whole symphony.

October 18, 2018

La Frenz Malbec, 2016

We are blowing through a mixed case of La Frenz with mixed results, mixed feelings, some white has even hit the stock pot, but this one hit a chord.  E Major!  From the first sip you feel transported to a sun drenched patio on the Chilean coast, it has the dark, acid, chocolate you associate with the varietal and a much cooler climate than you’d expect in Naramata, but it strikes a balance we found appealing from first to last sip.  Sort of momentous in how basic it is on the one hand and how satisfying on the other.  This Malbec needs some time in the cellar where it would blossom in a year or two; if you can hang on to it that long…

 

Price: A stunningly reasonable $24.25 from the vineyard but substantially more in YVR at private shops.

 

Market Liquidity: Value.  Value, value, value.  And satisfaction.

April 4, 2018

Vaglio Chango, 2015

Gismondi liked this blend, liked it a lot, so we bought a couple.  He gave it 90 points.  I will trust his judgement, that it has legs (to 2020), and leave some down for the count, and look forward to next year, and the year after.  But today, opened today and even decanted and with air, it was a little brutish on the palate, and the stony mineral undercurrent he referenced seemed to us at the forefront.  You can sense the potential, but it was just a tad too young for us.  Plus it had a soupcon of that aggressive “cheap Malbec” on the nose.

 

Not bad with hard to pair meats (burgers slathered in condiments or a funky meatloaf) but not pure pleasure as a sipper.

 

Price: $23.50 at BC Liquor.

 

Market Liquidity: A tulip before the bloom is really just a leaf.  But then what a bloom.

January 20, 2018

Clos de los Siete, Mendoza, 2012

From the cellar: Easy to find, easy to drink.  Not sure why we’ve never posted on the Siete, a lovely red blend highly recommended.  For whatever reason, we laid some down a few years ago.  I can’t unequivocally say that two years made an enormous difference, but there’s no denying the silkiness and allure of a slightly aged Siete.  And when you compare this to BC reds twice the price there’s no denying sheer brilliance at the price.

 

Although the Malbec dominates, the Merlot shines through, smooth and delectable, luscious in its fruit forwardness and with a lingering ripe plumb afterthought.  Zippo tannins.  A pinch of pepper.  Make no mistake: If you haven’t had a bottle you are passing on something of exquisite value.  Five bottles of this for the price of one fine Penfolds.

 

Price: Two years ago it was $24.50 all in at BC Liquor; nowadays, it’s $26 for the 2014 before egregious taxes.

 

Market Liquidity: Tuesday sipper or Sunday roast, it checks the boxes.

November 7, 2017

Amalaya Malbec, 2015

It’s been a few years since we picked up a bottle of Amalaya.  Why?  I have no idea.  It’s an inexpensive extremely palatable crowd pleaser that even pleases the pointsters.  From Salta, Argentina’s version of Atacama, it’s a dark, luscious sipper with a thick, balsamic feel on the tongue, and some charred chocolate and licorice on the finish.  Readily available across BC, the online description touts raspberry, graphite and black olives, none of which popped for us.  That said, this is spectacular “BC value” if you know what I mean.

 

Price: $22 at BC Liquor.

 

Market Liquidity: Like running into an old friend on the street.

July 26, 2016

TintoNegro Limestone Block Malbec, 2012

TintoNegro Limestone Block Malbec, 2012

92 points.  Seriously?  Someone is losing their marbles.

 

Price: $32.50 at Everything Wine.

 

Market Liquidity: An easy to drink red.