Posts tagged ‘David Lawrason’

January 31, 2017

Culmina Dilemma, 2014

culmina-dilemma-2014

The tasting notes on this whet the appetite.  I quote the vineyard: “An elegant Chardonnay, Dilemma shows enticing aromas of nectarine, lemon curd, hazelnut, and subtle clove spice. Delicate white floral and subtle French oak flavours lead to a concentrated, mineral mid-palate, taut with crunchy acidity and fresh melon fruit. Generous yet classically structured, the finish lingers long on the palate.”

 

While on the one hand I don’t disagree with any of that, I simply anticipated more: Indeed, if you’d read the myriad reviews and over the top points, you would too.  And, in the end, at the price, it undelivered, if you will.

 

In terms of their notes, a translation might be smooth criss-crossed with acidic gives way to a woodsy funk, finishing with a long and quite luscious buttery mineral note.  I couldn’t place the labyrinth of flavours they described.  We found it a little stark chill, and, as it warmed, it didn’t open up substantially.  On the plus side it’s an unassuming (or, as the profs put it, elegant) Chardonnay without the affront of most new world whites.  I’m torn.  Lawrason’s recommendation to leave it another year is probably advice well given and poorly heeded on our part.

 

Price: $34 at the vineyard, substantially more in YVR shops, if indeed you can find it.

 

Market Liquidity: Sort of a B plus from an A student.

December 6, 2016

Culmina Unicus, Gruner Vetliner, 2015

culmina-unicus-gruner-vetliner-2015

In the spirit of yesterday’s review, let’s disseminate the professional tasting notes. Here’s what Lawrason wrote (who, when he was at the Globe, was my favorite Canuck reviewer):

 

“Austria’s Gruner Veltliner is rare in Canada but you can bet others will be planting following the critical success of Unicus. This pours deeply lemon. The nose is very intense and exotic with ripe apricot, starfruit, honey and pepper. It’s quite full bodied, bright and almost aggressive with some oily and waxy character. It’s medium full bodied, firm and drier than first appearances. The length is excellent to outstanding.”

 

Yes.  Wow.  Yes, yes, yes.  Everything.  And the kitchen sink.  The most palatable decently priced satisfying and engaging BC white we’ve had in a long, long time.  And just look at that golden hue in the glass.  Nectar from the gods.

 

Gismondi gave it a measly 89 points.  He is a hard nut.

 

Price: $27 from the vineyard.

 

Market Liquidity: Season’s Greetings.

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